Three nights is enough nights in Lake Powell, right? Right? Nope, it’s not enough, not even close. But we saw as much as we possible could in that time.
Coming from St George we stopped for two nights in the South most part of Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument, maybe 10 miles from the Vermillion Cliffs National Monument in a fantastic little campground called “White House”. According to area signage the area was called as such by ranchers driving cattle though the river which was crystal clear from a nearby spring. They decided that this water was probably just as good as the water they got in the White House, and bam! A named valley!
When we rolled in we had our pick of all the sites. We chose #1, cuz we’re #1 bitchez. After getting the rig all set up – inside victory, we didn’t have to balance side to side! So wonderful when you land a flat site outside an RV park – we, yes WE went for a hike! I’m calling it a hike, if you saw it you’d laugh at me. Go ahead chuckles, get it out, but I’d been immobile entirely up to this point. With crutches and my walkin’ boot nice and tight, we went 300 yards down a wash to the river to sit in the sun and be away from the trailer for a little while. Amazing, just amazing. Where we were sitting just happened to be at the head of the Paria Canyon hike that’s a good 4-5 day hike that pops out at Lees Ferry.
The next morning Ken ventured to go 6 miles down that canyon. So he got up really early and took off. There was ice in the river that morning, the river that required multiple crossings. But he pushed onward, and really saw amazing stuff. The first fascination he came across is called the windows, holes carved in the sandstone by the river over many years of pounding. Continuing on the canyon got deeper, and eventually started spouting slot canyons before turning to a slot canyon itself.
Lake Powell in the middle of November is quiet, rather cold and the water level is super low. No, it’s really not the weather to go for a swim, and getting to the docks is a wild, steep and muddy walk (probably a bit exaggerated, but you try this crap on crutches). This comes with huge benefits. We got the best pull-through camp site with a private patio and an awesome lake view. A big deal, in case you don’t know. Plus it’s quiet, these places are 100% vacation and can get super loud every night. There were tons of parking spots in the town of Page, and no wait for an awesome crepe breakfast joint.
Best part, really, is off season rates on boat rentals with super flexible hours, and a ginormous lake all to yourself. We rented a tiny plastic speed boat for a half day, showed up an hour early and took off. I brought a thermos of hot chocolate, Ken a few beers. Our rental was from 11 to 3, and we were asked to show up by 10. I guess it usually takes an hour to get people out, but we were on the water in about 20 minutes, then told to be back, you know, around 3, but they leave at 4, so you know…
It was sunny and temperate when we weren’t moving. Once we got going it got chilly, but we hardly noticed. First was the dam, then Antelope Canyon. With the water so low at 42% of full (that’s down 58% from full, because I can do math) the canyon walls were extra dramatic. I assume this last statement is true, this was my first time and I imagine most first impressions of Lake Powell are dramatic. As we rode through there was one tour boat, and a few kayakers. In other words, we had all of Antelope to ourselves! At the end of Antelope we stopped for a while to fish. Ken almost caught a bass, it chomped on the lure but missed the hook.
After Antelope was Navajo Canyon, all to ourselves. The water was so still the reflections were other worldly. At one point it was surreal and one could almost feel like they were flying through the canyon.
Schaefer Haus 